April 22, 2008

The Social Entrepreneurship Program in which I am participating offered a half-day workshop on Tuesday for Rwandan leaders from the public, private, religious, and donor worlds.

In light of the eagerness for mentorship that I have previously described, we had no difficulty filling the 50 available seats. The event, covered by both Rwandan print and television media, provided attendees with skills on how to assess their organizations and build strategic plans to fulfill their missions.

Instead of going into detail about the workshop and attendees, I'd like to talk more about the venue in which it took place: Hotel Des Mille Collines (i.e., "Hotel Rwanda").

As the genocide unfolded, the Hotel Des Mille Collines became a refugee camp. Hotel manager Paul Rusesabagina provided shelter for over 1,000 Tutsis and moderate Hutus, often needing to bribe Hutu militia and draw upon his Belgian contacts to politically intervene in order to keep his occupants safe.

What many may not know is that the movie Hotel Rwanda (2004) is actually quite controversial among Rwandans.

Told from his own perspective and through a Hollywood lens, Paul Rusesabagina positions himself as nothing short of a hero. While the people with whom I spoke about the movie appreciated how it raised world awareness about the genocide, many Rwandans, including President Paul Kagame, see him as anything but someone who should be put on a pedestal. Namely, they are angered that he charged those who sought refuge at the hotel, and they see him as profiteering on the genocide. They do not see the money Paul made from this movie coming back to Rwanda, and he no longer lives in the country.

As with any complicated and highly charged situation, people are likely to have very different interpretations of the same events, and motives are very difficult to discern. After a quick Google search, I was able to find some articles out there that talk about both sides of this controversy. I ask anyone interested in this particular topic to do a little research for us and let us know what you find.

Controversy aside, the experience of passing the gates of The Hotel Des Mille Collines was sobering if not chilling. As I passed through the lobby, recognizable from the movie, and through the halls of this luxury hotel (by international standards, not just Rwandan), I tried to imagine what it was really like here 14 short years ago. Packed to capacity, holding people fear for their lives, watching the struggle to exist on minimal provisions, if only these walls could talk. As much as I tried, I just could not (or would not) imagine what it was really like.

After lunch, I took this picture from a fourth floor terrace. Just below, people were enjoying the swimming pool which became the prime source of drinking water for occupants during the genocide. I was feeling quite unsettled.

I was approached by a local minister, Augustine Kakwaya of the Apostles and Prophets Church of Jesus Christ. As we talked about the lovely view that we shared, I mentioned to him that I came across a saying in my readings about how God sleeps in Rwanda. His eyes lit up, he grabbed a piece of hotel stationary, and he wrote the following: "IMANA YIRIWA AHANDI IGATAHA IRWANDA."

He explained that this means, "God (IMANA) spends days doing good things (YIRIWA) elsewhere/away (AHANDI), but he returns to sleep (IGATAHA) in Rwanda (IRWANDA). He made me practice it several times and repeat it to nearby friends and colleagues.

Far more so than me, Rwandans are still trying to understand how something so horrible could have happened to their country. The feelings of betrayal are still very much part of the landscape, yet once again, I was pointed to the hope of peace and reconciliation.